TORRES del PAINE National Park, Chile. . . . . . Part I

Puerto Natales, Chile

Torres del Paine National Park

March 13, 2018

Temp. Range 40-51F 

Showers possible all day

By 8:30 am we were in Zodiacs being transported ashore to Puerto Natales.

Three clean and comfy buses were awaiting to take us on the 1.5 hour 

drive through the Chilean countryside to the Torres del Paine National Park.

Declared a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 1978, it was voted the 8th wonder of

the world in 2014 by people from all over the world!

This park, in Chile’s Patagonia region, is known for its soaring mountains, 

bright blue icebergs and ice floes that cleave from many glaciers, and golden

 pampas (grasslands) that shelter rare wildlife such as llama-like guanacos. 

Lake Grey, the Grey Glacier visible left of photo.

Our stop for lunch was at Hosteria Grey, an attractive tourist complex on

 Lake Grey with magnificent views from the restaurant. The property is

 surrounded by forests of lenga and coigue hardwood trees serving as

a refuge for the south Andean deer (Hippocamelus bisulcus), also known

as the southern guemal, an endangered species native to the mountains of 

Argentina and Chile.

Lake Grey with blue ice floe and the Grey Glacier. . . . . light rain falling.

A small iceberg.

Wish we'd had time to kayak there.

Following the tasty lunch, we moved on to the central area of the park consisting

 of the alpine massif with three imposing granite 'Torres' or towers that reach

 over 10,000 feet, together with several lesser 'Cuernos' or horns which are formed

 of black shale.

It was quite cloudy with light rain, however we did get quite good views of this

 spectacular landscape. . . . . . . 

. . . . . . here's a photo to whet your appetite - next time in Part II I'll show you much more!

Garibaldi Glacier, Chilean Fjords. . . . . . . . .

Garibaldi Fjord, Chile

March 10, 2018

58F Cloudy skies with scattered showers 

One of Chile's newest and largest national parks, Parque Nacional

 Alberto de Agostini (5,600 sq. miles), is also a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve

 because of its swathes of distinct ecosystems and special landscapes. 

Centerpiece of the park is the Cordillera Darwin, whose slopes drop precipitously

 into the sea. Valleys not filled by the sea are covered by glaciers which also

 occupy small high plateaus.

The Garibaldi Fjord is a narrow passage in the Chilean Fjord system strewn

 with floating ice of all shapes and sizes. Ribbons of waterfalls snake down

 the steep mountainsides and a rich ecosystem of plants and wildlife has evolved. 

Early mornings on board an expedition ship usually mean late nights are

 out of the question! One needs to be up, preferably at dawn, on deck to

 experience the exciting arrival to a place where you'll soon be experiencing

 nature from water level once the Zodiac boats start loading.  

This Zodiac cruise was Bob's first ever! He was a little nervous but soon got the

 routine down pat and, like everyone who experiences these amazing boats, 

enjoyed being able to get to special places otherwise unapproachable from larger

 cruise ships.

 Here the Garibaldi Glacier tumbles into the sea. . . . . . . 

. . . . . . . . Bob with our dear friends Kim and Rob and one of the larger icebergs we passed,

 and by then the weather had taken a turn for the worse, sea began to get a bit choppy.

Sea ice and kelp.

 

Bob braving the elements on his first Zodiac ride. . . . . . . just another 700 miles

 south and he would have made Antarctica!!!

Returning to the Hebridean Sky after an hour long cruise. . . . . . the always 

waiting hot drink and warm towel was welcome.

Next time: those adorable birds we all seem to love so much, penguins.

You don't have to go all the way to Antarctica to see them!

Sailing to Chile. . . . . . . . .

Cape Horn, Chile

March 9, 2018

51F Cloudy, rain possible

Our embarkation on the Noble Caledonia "Hebridean Sky" went very smoothly with luggage awaiting in a spacious cabin maintained by Ms. Andy, who kept us neat and tidy and replenished the tissue boxes often when I came down with the beastly cold! After the welcome briefing, usual lifeboat drill and Zodiac briefing, we set sail for Puerto Williams where we anchored for clearance into CHILE and took our two Chilean Pilots on-board---they stayed with us the entire voyage to keep us safe. After formalities were completed we continued towards Cape Horn.

"The evening was calm and bright, and we enjoyed a fine view of the surrounding isles. Cape Horn however demanded his tribute, and before night sent us a gale of wind directly in our teeth. We stood out to sea, and on the second day again made the land, when we saw on our weather-bow this notorious promontory in its proper form - veiled in mist, and its dim outline surrounded by a storm of wind and water."

Charles Darwin's journal description of Cape Horn

Charles Darwin, in The Voyage of the Beagle, a journal of the five-year expedition upon which he based The Origin of Species, described his 1832 encounter with the Horn.

Early morning arrival - thankfully a beautiful day with quite calm sea and sunshine - how lucky we were.

The cape lies within Chilean territorial waters, and the Chilean Navy maintains a station on Horn Island, consisting of a residence, utility building, chapel, and lighthouse. A short distance from the main station is a memorial, including a large sculpture by Chilean sculptor José Balcells featuring the silhouette of an albatross, in remembrance of the sailors who died while attempting to "round the Horn". It was erected in 1992 through the initiative of the Chilean Section of the Cape Horn Captains Brotherhood.The terrain is entirely treeless, although quite lush owing to frequent precipitation. 

On arrival off Cape Horn, our Captain, in cooperation with the Chilean Pilots and 

our expedition leader Jane, assessed weather and sea conditions for Zodiac landings.

Above shows expedition team members heading ashore to determine all is OK

 for a safe landing. . . . . . . the beautiful Albatross memorial visible on the hill. . . . . . 

. . . . . and preparing for the 167 stair climb up the cliff!

View as we climbed the stairs, the ship at anchor, water quite flat, and a beautiful sunny morning to explore.

More steps to the memorial. . . . . . . 

We met the Chilean lighthouse keeper and his wife - the children were studying.

When asked if the children liked living there he told us they have already requested he 

sign on for another 2 year posting when this one is completed!

- The Chapel -

This first stop on our expedition voyage to the Chilean fjords  was going to be

 hard to beat - such a pleasant day as the strong winds and 

big sea swells stayed away. . . . . . 

. . . . . and we sailed away to dress up a bit for the Captain's Welcome Cocktail Party

 followed by an excellent Welcome Dinner.

Next day we would be cruising through the majestic sea, ice and landscape of 

Garibaldi Fjord.

Coming home soon. . . . . . . .

Wow, it's been a long, busy trip!  Lots to share once I get back and have time to catch up!