St. Andrews Bay, South Georgia..........

January 20, 2013 - St. Andrews Bay, South Georgia Island

Good visibility, partly sunny

Wind NE 2; Sea: smooth; Air Temp. 5C (41F)

Mary and Paula dressed in elegant expedition finery ready to explore this beautiful place.

We had our reasons for wearing grins.

The sun was shining, the winds were light, and 

who wouldn't smile when surrounded by an estimated

150,000 breeding pairs of King penguins. Of the world's  

2 million pairs total, 25% live on South Georgia Island, 

and St. Andrews Bay is the largest colony.

Penguins are exceedingly charismatic, flightless birds.

Although most at home in the sea, they are still dependent 

on land for breeding and moulting. With their waddling gait 

they travel inland, up steep hills and across rugged terrain 

to their colonies.

Also living here are 6,000 Southern elephant seal cows 

during the pupping season making it one of the 

largest seal breeding beaches on the island. 

The 3 ton, 15 feet long blubbery 'beachmaster' males, 

fight one another to gain large harems of females.  

The competition is brutal as this is their only chance 

to sire the next generation.

Elephant seal cows.

Fur seal pups.

 Several of the group sailed off in sea kayaks as water conditions were perfect. 
Arriving on the beach we immediately knew we were in 
for a great morning.

King penguins were visible as far as the eye could see,
Elephant seal cows mixed in doing little but basking 
and grunting.

Most penguin chicks were old enough to be 

left in creches away from their parents.

Lots of chats going on between the adults - maybe three moms discussing their children.

When we climbed higher up the hillsides the views 
were astounding, and the river made by the melting 
ice was obviously a favorite gathering place.

At the river, swimming lessons and wallowing in 

refreshing running water were on the daily list of

activities to pass the time....and everyone 

seemed to play well together.

It was here we were tagged by a chick whom we named 

Ms. Georgia. She left her boring pebble willingly 

and decided to join us on our stroll.

Checking out Paula's gloves and Wellies for 

herself, she then allowed a friend to join in. Petting 

wildlife here is not permitted, however they are allowed 

to come to you which the curious young chicks often do. 

It's a wonderful feeling to have one come so close of

its own accord.

Ms. Georgia later introduced us to more of her friends, 

these a little older, and a bit scruffy looking, 

as they were already moulting their brown baby 

fluff and preening sleek new waterproof feathers.

She followed us silently for some time.....we wished 

so much we could stay and play, touch her soft coat 

and really get to know her. 

It was noisy and smelly here of course.

Southern giant petrels with wingspan up to 6.8 ft., 

lifespan 26+ years.

Male and female look alike but there are two different 
adult plumage forms - above is known as dark morph, 
below is the white morph.

An up close wildlife experience not to be 

missed - Elephant seals, King penguin chicks 

and juveniles.

We were sad to leave late morning but fortunately had 

been permitted to spend several hours to enjoy this 

exceptional landing and get some great photos.

Stunning South Georgia's mountains reflected in the pool. 
Was one of these chicks Ms. Georgia?  Hard to tell because 

they all look so alike.........but I like to think that's 

her in the center facing the camera for her last portrait 

as we said goodbye!